Category Archives: Habitat-Design

Maison Saine – Design

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  1. Le site et l’orientation solaire
  2. Le site et la géobiologie
  3. Le terrain en propriété exclusive et sans condition (« steward of the land », contrôle d’environnement = santé physique)
  4. Rénovation versus nouvelle construction
  5. Matériaux sains (aussi tester le Radon <100 Bq/m³ (Bequerel/m³=2.7pCi/L (pico curies/litre))
  6. Technologies appropriées: domotiques pour gérer l’énergie, sécurité (déduction d’assurances);
  7. Utilisation d’énergie (R2000=170kWh/m²)
  8. Agencement/Localisation des technologies (min.distance): congélateur et frigo dans chambre froide; bain/cuisine à côté du chauffe-eau avec 3/8″ tuyaux;

greywater-system jpgGérer les déchets

  1. blackwaterbedLes matériaux fécaux (humainure)
  2. Le Pipicyclage dans le réseau des eaux grises
  3. Les eaux grises sont immédiatement canalisées dans le jardin, compost
  4. compostheatinggreenhouseCompostage


  1.  Wikihouse (open source building system)
  2. Ecohabitation (Resources en habitation écologique)
  3. Whole Systems Design (Ben Falk, permaculture homing)
  4. Martin Holaday – Green Building Advisor

Principes du Design

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housedesignflowerLes Principes du design écologique:

  1. Matériaux Naturels
  2. Confort et Santé
  3. Haute Performance
  4. Écologique
  5. Résilience

Matériaux naturels

à contrôler:

  • les composés organiques volatiles (COV)
  • les ondes électromagnétiques


Masse thermique

  • Céramique, Brique
  • Pierre naturelles
  • Ciment Terre crue. brique de terre cru
  • eau

Le Chauffage

  • chauffage de l’espace habitable
  • ventilation de l’espace habitable
  • chauffage de l’eau

Solaire passif

Angle des fenêtres: si le soleil frappe la fenêtre à un angle supérieur de 45°, la perte devient exponentielle

Largeur vs profondeur: simuler le trajet du soleil (sketchup) pour vérifier que le soleil touche les masses thermiques profitablement

Angle du toit nord: le moins élevé l’angle le plus haut la conservation de chaleur


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Portable, solar-powered ecocapsules mean you can live rent- and electric-bill free, globally


Article from

If you’ve just had it with taking the subway, or sitting in an office, or just generally being around other people, you may be in luck. Slovakian firm Nice Architects has built an egg-shaped “Ecocapsule” that runs entirely on solar and wind energy, allowing its dweller(s) to live both literally, and figuratively, off the grid.

The completely self-sustaining portable home contains a 9,744 watt-hour battery, a 750 watt wind turbine, and high-efficiency solar cells that can support you for about a year in pretty much any location in the world, provided there is some sunlight. (It probably wouldn’t work in a cave, for instance, should someone desire to live in one.)

The capsule also includes a rainwater collection and filtration system. Inside, there’s a kitchenette with running water, a flushable toilet, a shower, a bed, and work space. Nice Architects says the capsule, which is about 4.5 meters (14.7 feet) long and 2.4 meters (7.9 feet) wide, can comfortably fit two people.


The egg-home can be “easily transported” by trailer, according to the company, and can even charge the electric car that’s towing it.

But beyond just nomadic living, the Ecocapsule has plenty of other potential applications, from providing shelter in disaster areas to doubling as scientific research stations.

Nice Architects will unveil its prototype at the Pioneers festival in Vienna on May 28 before taking pre-orders at the end of 2015 for shipping in the first half of 2016. The company says the price will be released later this year, though there’s already a steep shipping cost. Sending the capsule from Slovakia to New York, for instance, will cost you €2,200 ($2,383) alone, and the capsule itself is likely to run to tens of thousands of dollars.


Habitation autonome

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The basics of an autonomous Homestead

DIY veteran Lloyd Kahn shares the tried-and-true tools and techniques that have kept his half-acre homestead humming for 40 years. You find the list of almost everything mentioned here, here

Chicken coop. I built about five makeshift coops and lost quite a few hens to predators before deciding to construct a proper coop. We poured a concrete slab, put up conventional walls, and protected the yard with aviary wire, which we sank about 18 inches into the ground all the way around. The new coop has successfully kept out hawks, rats and digging critters, such as raccoons. It also has a living roof.

Greenhouse. Its north wall is made of stabilized adobe bricks (1 part cement to 12 parts soil). The other three walls are recycled windows that were free. With the greenhouse roofing, trial and error prevailed. The first roof was made of corrugated vinyl sheets from Home Depot, and after a few years, they became discolored — horrible stuff. I replaced them with greenhouse-grade fiberglass, and within six years, it too had become discolored from road dust and lichen, causing the plants inside to grow too leggy. The greenhouse’s present roof is twin-walled polycarbonate, a wonderful (though expensive) glazing material (from Farm Tek) with a 10-year guarantee. We also installed a solar-powered fan for cooling.

Raid-proof garden beds. Gophers are a problem in our area, so Lesley laid quarter-inch wire mesh on the ground where we wanted each garden bed, and then dry-stacked two layers of concrete blocks on top around the edges of the wire. We then filled the bed and blocks with soil and — voilà! — we had gopher-proof vegetable beds.

Compost system. We’ve found that keeping two compost buckets works well — a 1-gallon bucket by the sink for food scraps we’ll feed to our chickens, and a 3-gallon bucket with a foot-operated lid for the rest of our food scraps, such as orange peels and coffee grounds. In the garden, I built three 5-by-5-foot bins, each about 5 feet high, with sliding boards in front that I can adjust according to the pile’s height. We mix in food scraps from the foot-operated bin, grass cuttings, seaweed, topsoil, and manure and bedding straw from the chicken coop, and keep adding, mixing and moving the compost from bin to bin until it has matured.

Tin roofs for outdoor storage. Our entire property is fenced to keep out deer and dogs. On many sections of fence, I’ve formed roofs out of recycled, heavy-gauge corrugated metal sheets to create covered areas for tool storage, firewood and more.

Lumber racks. To compensate for limited storage space, I’ve built racks so I can stack lumber five tiers high.

Hearthstone wood burning stove. This 35-year-old wood stove is our only source of heat (though we also rely on the age-old principle of layering clothing). I get wood from trees that topple on or alongside nearby roads, and once a year I rent a log splitter to split them into firewood.

Honorable mentions: wheelbarrow for innumerable garden tasks; Northern Industrial Tools yard cart for hauling.

Most Useful Tools in the Kitchen

WonderMill 110-volt electric grain mill. This mill grinds grain quickly and efficiently. We use it to grind wheat and rye for our sourdough bread, make our own cream of rice, and grind oat groats into flour for pancakes and waffles.

KitchenAid Professional 600 Series mixer. This machine is reliable and unbeatable for kneading dough.

AccuSharp 001 knife sharpener. This inexpensive little tool lets you swiftly and effectively sharpen knives.

Marga Mulino grain flaker. This small, hand-powered Italian roller turns oat groats into rolled oats, and can be set for finer grinds as well.

Fermenting crock. Using a ceramic vessel to ferment foods is so simple. To make sauerkraut, for example, you just shred cabbage, add salt and let the mixture sit for a few weeks. Our favorite pot, made in Poland, features a water seal.

Rheem hot water heater. I installed a 5-gallon electric hot water heater under the kitchen sink. It uses minimal electricity and provides hot water right at the source.

Dishwashing system. In place of a dishwasher, we use Rubbermaid 4-gallon dishpans to wash dishes in, and we place the dishes in a custom-built rack for drying and storage.

Honorable mentions: Chef’s Choice cordless tea kettle for coffee, tea and hot water needs; Component Design Northwest meat thermometer for an accurate temperature read when cooking meat; Pure Water water distiller for drinking water; Messermeister poultry shears for cutting up poultry; Weber Genesis liquid-propane gas grill for cooking meat, poultry and fish outdoors.

Shop Essentials

Mighty Mac 12P hammermill chipper-shredder. Ours has lasted more than 30 years. The side-feeding chipper is powerful enough to chip a 2-by-4. We use it to grind up branches and garden trimmings for the compost pile. Never push branches down into the hopper with your hands; use a 2-by-4 instead.

Makita variable-speed impact driver with a lithium-ion battery. This driver has been a game changer for me. It uses both rotation and concussive blows to drive screws, and it’s two to three times as powerful as the familiar driller-driver. The trigger controls the speed.

Protective gear. If you operate a chainsaw, please wear protective gear, such as the Husqvarna Pro Forest helmet and face shield system.

Saws. Lots of saws. I have a 40-year-old Delta radial arm saw that’s still going strong, a vintage Delta 10-inch table saw, an old, reconditioned Makita miter saw, a Porter-Cable circular saw, a Makita 4350 FCT top handle jigsaw, and a Stihl 24-inch MS 270 chainsaw. For a handsaw, I now wield a Japanese SharkSaw Pullsaw in place of my old U.S.-made push saws. The Pullsaw is faster and more accurate.

Lehman’s froe. I make wooden shakes with a froe . You can make shakes if you have access to tight-grained lumber, such as redwood or cedar.

Honorable mentions: Gorilla Glue adhesive products; Honda 2,800-watt portable inverter generator to keep our appliances running in case of power outages; Norton Arkansas oilstone for sharpening knives and chisels; Roselli hatchet for woodcarving; Victorinox Swiss Army Centurion knife for garden and maintenance work.